House of Jasmines
What We Love
- Vast distances in northern Argentina make many estancias too remote for a short hop, but Jasmines is just 15 minutes from Salta
- In a country where red meat rules, the restaurant dishes up some inventive and fresh alternatives that are still South American classics
- No door handle or scatter cushion has been overlooked in this truly stylish estancia; you’ll want to take everything home
- The hacienda is chic but informal; relaxed guests laze about the lounges and terraces as if at home
- The pool, like the spa, is an understated but utterly charming place to kill an afternoon with a bottle of Malbec
What To Know
- Bathrooms have been recently renovated in June 2012
- If you want the full estancia experience — asados, daily horse riding and stable life — this is not it
- Not in the heart of Salta; the drive is 15 to 25 minutes, and many Salta taxi drivers aren’t familiar with the property
- Service is genuinely friendly but patchy; if you’re in a cottage or out by the pool, expect a wait for food
- Free WiFi
- Handicap Accessible
- Kids Club
- Parking On Site
It’s the opener to every great hotel story: a tree-lined drive (in this case giant eucalyptus), with just a glimpse of a whitewashed estancia among pampas grasses at the end. The scent of jasmine fills the air, while noisy caracara birds make their namesake squawks. Not so long ago, guests would have been met inside with an impressive (or hilarious) portrait of actor Robert Duvall, who bought the ranch after marrying an Argentine tango dancer. But today the hacienda belongs to a French family who sprinkled the place with chic accessories: striped alpaca throws strewn across raw linen sofas, local handmade cotton dolls in mahogany frames, and northern Argentina’s distinctive, colorful wool hats hung from hooks on adobe walls.
Standard Rooms are in the farmhouse, while the suites are housed in rustic cottages dotted about the grounds. The Provençal-looking spa is farthest from the main building, but that just means it’s a peaceful walk back down the drive. The spa is low-key: a handful of all-white treatment rooms rather than a cluster of pools and heat experiences. But this adds to the hushed charm; take a book and lose an afternoon on a chaise longue after a massage. When you want to swim, the lawn-rimmed outdoor pool is up by the house; guests are fed and watered poolside by discreet staff members in gaucho-esque gear.
Food is Jasmines’ real pull, though, and the place is as popular with Argentines as with American and European travelers. It has earned Relais & Chateaux status, and no meal is a disappointment. Breakfast, which is served in the sunny glasshouse, changes each morning because it’s all handmade; perhaps alfajor biscuits, hot pan de queso or a crusty loaf. Dinner is at La Table, a top restaurant in its own right that serves delicate French takes on Argentine carnivore dishes: lemon chicken roasted whole in a clay pot, or spit-roasted pig with herbs from the garden. Live musicians accompany dinner — but thankfully it’s more Spanish guitar than raucous tango.
How to Get There
Located a few miles outside the bustle of Salta - this Relais & Chateaux hotel transports you to a different place and time.
Its life in rural Argentina in another century, in a modest but beautifully decorated farm house. They ve managed to keep the charm of the old - fireplaces, rooms, beams and whitewashed walls while adding the new where it matters - mattress quality, size of beds and swimming pool / spa.
We so much enjoyed our stay at House of Jasmines, we felt right at home and didn't want to leave. The staff is most friendly, the food is absolutely delicious, we loved the interior design, there are plenty of nice sitting areas inside and outside overlooking the beautiful garden, everything is very clean and the beds are so comfi and the shower soap smells devine! It located perfectly just outside of Salta. They have bikes and horseback rides available to explore the area. We really hope to come back some day.
We have long wanted to visit the House of Jasmines and finally got there in October for a 4 night stay. I must admit that I was a little nervous as to what we would find, as it seems to have attracted a certain amount of negative criticism on Trip Advisor. However, whilst the place is not perfect (where is?), we thoroughly enjoyed our stay there and found it really relaxing and laid-back. We had the two interconnecting superior rooms upstairs at the rear of the main property which both had large terraces and views of the pool and grounds. The bed-rooms and bathrooms were very attractively styled and extremely quiet. Cynthia and Fernanda on reception were always super-friendly and helpful and went out of their way to make us feel welcome. We enjoyed the food in the restaurant and great service from Jorge who speaks excellent English. The breakfast was generous and delicious. I went on a 2-hour horse-ride through the woods and along the river-bed with a gaucho which was wonderful. The bird life was delightful; the highlight of our stay was seeing a pair of tiny burrowing owls and humming birds. We took taxi’s into and back from Salta and they were very reasonably priced rather than the USD 20/25 per trip mentioned by other reviewers. The only downsides for us were that the place sometimes felt a little understaffed at reception and in the restaurant. It could also benefit, we felt, from some more fans and/or increased air-con during the really sultry temperatures. The bathroom towels were surprisingly rough and need replacing or softening. However, these were small issues, and overall, we loved our time at this property and would have no hesitation in recommending it.